资源简介

(共22张PPT)
FASHION ENGLISH
服 装 英 语
Unit 4 Patternmaking
（服装制版）
Chapter 2
Manufacturing Technology
( 服装生产技术)
This unit includes patternmaking terminologies for the workroom, the basic principles of patternmaking, women’s pants and figure analysis of different body features. Through learning, students can master the professional vocabulary and expressions related to garment construction, key parts of the body and body types. The content in this unit can not only enrich students’ knowledge in the field of garment construction, patternmaking and figure analysis, but also provide a solid foundation for the study of clothing technologies.
本单元包括工作室用制版术语、制版的基本原则、女式裤子和不同类型的体型分析。通过学习，学生可以掌握与服装结构、身体关键部位和体型相关的专业词汇和表达。本单元的内容不仅丰富了学生在服装结构、制版、体型分析等方面的知识，也为服装技术的研究提供了坚实的基础。
Teaching Contents
4. 服装制版
1. Master the clothing vocabulary of construction, patternmaking and body types;
2. Be able to describe patternmaking terminologies with professional words;
3. Be able to understand and translate texts in this unit;
4. Be able to understand the relevant articles with similar difficulty;
5. Master the meaning of patternmaking terms in the workroom, the basic method of patternmaking for women’s trousers, and the analysis method of different figures.
1.掌握结构、制版和体型的服装词汇；
2.能够用专业词汇描述制版技术过程；
3.能够理解和翻译本单元的课文；
4.能够读懂类似难度的相关文章；
5.掌握工作室内制版术语的含义，女裤制版的基本方法，不同体型的分析方法。
Learning Objectives
4. 服装制版
Warming-up
Task 1 Translate the technical terms into Chinese.
1. dart 2. crotch 3. bias 4. selvage
Task 2 Translate the garment names into Chinese.
1. culottes 2. slacks 3. jeans 4. shorts
Part I Patternmaking Terms for the Workroom
（工作室常用制版术语）
Patternmaking is an art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to the curves of the human figure . Patternmaking is a bridge function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components.
制版工艺是一门通过操作和塑造平面布料，使其吻合人体曲线的艺术。制版工艺是设计和生产之间的桥梁。制版通过服装的各个部件来诠释设计，从而最终将服装效果图转换为服装。
4. 服装制版
New Words and Phrases
back [b k] n. 后片
basic pattern 原型版
bodice [ b d s] n. 大身
bowing [ b ] n. 弓纬
bust point 胸点
contour [ k nt (r)] n. 轮廓 adj. 显示轮廓的
cowl [ka l] n. 斗篷
crosswise [ kr swa z] adj. 横向的，交叉的
dart leg 省道线
dart intake 省量
design pattern 设计版
drafting [ drɑ ft ] n. 绘图，制图
dart [dɑ t] n. 省道
flares [fle s] n. 喇叭裤
flat patternmaking 平面制版
foundation pattern 基础版
front [fr nt] n. 前片
give [ɡ v] n. 伸展力，弹性
grain [ɡre n] n. 纹理，纹路
lengthwise [ le kθwa z] adj. 纵向的
measurement [ me m nt] n. 测量，测量尺寸
muslin [ m zl n] n. 平纹细布
skewing [ skju ] n. 纬斜
toile [twɑ l] n. 薄麻布，棉质印花布
working pattern 工作版
New Words and Phrases
重点词汇讲解
grain : the natural patterns of lines in the surface of wood or cloth.
木材或布表面的自然线条图案。
Notes
[1] True bias is the angle line that intersects with the lengthwise and crosswise grains at a 45° angle. True bias has maximum give and stretch, easily conforming to the figure’s contours. Flares, cowls, and drapes work best when cut on true bias.
angle line 指的是斜裁线；intersects with 意为“与……相交”；give 此处为名词，与 stretch 意思相近。
译文：斜裁线与经纱和纬纱相交成 45°。纯粹的斜裁具有最大的伸展力和伸缩性，很易于展现人体曲线。纯粹的斜裁方法用在喇叭裤、斗篷和自然褶上可以获得很好的效果。
[2] When fi ller threads do not interlace with the straight grains at 90°, bowing and skewing, or a one-sided combination occurs and is often sent to industry in that condition unless otherwise instructed.
fi ller threads 这里指纬纱；interlace with 意为“与……交织”；one-sided combination 指纱线向一侧集中；unless otherwise 意为“除非另有”。
译文：当纬纱和竖直方向的交角不是 90°时，弓纬和纬斜，或者纱线向一边聚集的情况就会出现了。这种情况除非另有指示，通常就要送回到工厂里面了。
Notes
Part II Women’s Pants
（女裤）
4. 服装制版
New Words and Phrases
abdomen [ bd m n] n. 腹部
Bermudas [b mju d z] n. 百慕大短裤
buttocks [ b t ks] n. 臀部
center front 前中心
center back 后中心
crotch [kr t ] n. 裆部
crotch depth 裆深
crotch extension 裆部延长线
crotch length 裆长
crotch level 裆线
crotch point 裆底，裆尖，浪底
culottes [kju l ts] n. 裙裤
ease [i z] n. 松量
inseam [ nsi m] n. 内侧缝线
outseam [ a tsi m] n. 外侧缝线
pedal-pusher 骑车裤
seam allowance 缝份；缝头
torso [ t s ] n. 躯干
Notes
[3] There are four major pant foundations, characterized by the hang of the pant from the abdomen and buttocks: The culotte hangs away, the trouser hangs straight, the slack cups, and the jean contours the abdomen and buttocks areas.
hang 在这里作名词，意为“下垂”。hang away, 这里 hang 作动词，指下垂离开腹部和臀部；the slack 指宽松裤；cup 在这里指呈杯状下垂。
译文：四种主要的基本裤型其从腹部和臀部下垂方式各有特点：裙裤下垂部分远离腹部和臀部，直筒裤直线下垂，宽松裤略呈杯形下垂，牛仔裤紧贴腹部和臀部曲线下垂。
Notes
[4] The trouser is a pant that hangs straight downward from the outermost part of the abdomen and buttocks. It fits closer to the body than a culotte does because the front crotch extension is shorter.
the outermost part 指最高的部分，这里指的是凸点。
译文：长裤是从腹部和臀部凸点直接下垂的裤型。它比裙裤更加吻合人体，因为前裆延长线更短。
Exercises
I. Match the words in Column A with the proper descriptions in Column B.
Column A
（ ）1. basic pattern
（ ）2. grain
（ ）3. warp
（ ）4. inseam
（ ）5. dart
（ ）6. seam allowance
Column B
A. A tapered cut-out in a pattern to control the fit of a garment.
B. Yarns parallel with selvage and at right angles to the weft yarn.
C. Seam between the legs joining the front and back pant.
D. The distance from the raw edge to the needle holes.
E. A five-piece pattern set which represents the dimensions of a specifi c form or fi gure.
F. The direction in which the yarn is woven.
Exercises
dart ease culottes stitch selvage warp contour grainline pattern hemline
1. Design is an additional amount added to create the style.
2. Border patterns on fabric are usually woven or printed parallel to the edge.
3. The are very loose and look like a skirt at a distance.
4. Most darts are purely functional used to fit the of the body at the bust, waist, hips, and shoulders.
5. The pattern is a line drawn on each pattern piece to indicate how the pattern should align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric.
6. Both manual and computer drafting methods are offered for developing the basic set.
II. Fill in the blanks with correct words in the following box．
Exercises
dart ease culottes stitch selvage warp contour grainline pattern hemline
7. It is the that converts a plane shape into a three-dimensional garment.
8. The hemming stitches should be an even distance from the .
9. In weaving, the is the threads which are held in a frame or machine called a loom while another thread is passed across through them.
10. Please the pieces together along the fold.
II. Fill in the blanks with correct words in the following box．
Expanding video — Basic Patternmaking Tools
Expanding video — How to Take Clothing Measurements
1. 重点句翻译；
2. 整理本章相关专业词汇。
3. 完成教材练习III；
4. 课下自学补充阅读Figure Analysis，完成课后习题。
5. 预习第5章热身练习，并熟悉阅读部分的词汇。
课下作业
THE END
Hypocritical sincerity is more terrible than devil.
虚伪的真诚比魔鬼还可怕——泰戈尔

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