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(共26张PPT)
FASHION ENGLISH
服 装 英 语
Unit 3 Apparel Production （成衣生产）
Chapter 2
Manufacturing Technology
( 服装生产技术)
This unit includes the main working procedures of apparel production, the specific technologies of each process, specifi cations of sewing machines, various stitches and sewing characteristics. By studying apparel production, students can master a large number of professional vocabulary related to apparel production technology, and can also gain a preliminary understanding of the foreign apparel production system. Through learning, students can broaden their horizons and understand advanced clothing technology.
本单元包括服装生产的主要工序、各工序的具体技术、缝纫机的规格、各种缝线和缝纫特性。通过学习服装生产，学生可以掌握大量与服装生产技术相关的专业词汇，也可以初步了解国外服装生产体系。通过学习，学生可以开阔视野，并了解先进的服装技术。
Teaching Contents
3. 成衣生产
1. Master the clothing vocabulary of production technology, garment parts and constructions;
2. Be able to describe the apparel production process fl ow and the specifi c technologies of each process with professional words;
3. Be able to read and translate texts in this unit;
4. Be able to read the relevant articles with similar diffi culty;
5. Master the overall process of apparel production and the specifi c tasks of each process.
1.掌握生产工艺、服装部件和结构的服装词汇；
2.能够用专业词汇描述服装生产工艺流程及各工序的具体技术；
3.能够阅读和翻译本单元的课文；
4.能够阅读类似难度的相关文章；
5.掌握服装生产的全过程及各过程的具体任务。
Learning Objectives
3. 成衣生产
Warming-up
Task 1 Match the words in Column A with the proper descriptions in Column B.
Column A
（ ）1. cutting
（ ）2. marking
（ ）3. pressing
（ ）4. notching
（ ）5. spreading
（ ）6. assembling
Column B
A. Marking on the edges of the component parts to align and sew the parts.
B. Joining the individual parts by one step until the garment is completed.
C. Separating piece goods into the component parts of a garment.
D. Shaping the material, garment components and completed garments with heat,moisture, pressure and time.
E. Arranging all pattern pieces on the fabric or paper.
F. Stacking the material one layer on top of another to create a lay.
Task 2 Arrange the following production operations in the correct order.
A. Cutting B. Sewing C. Design D. Sample making E. Spreading F. Pressing
（ ） （ ） （ ） （ ） （ ） （ ）
Part I Overview of Apparel Production
（成衣生产概述）
Apparel production is a process which fabric is being converted into garments. It's required to feature innovativeness and uniqueness in the most ideal way as being a labor-intensive industry. Apparel students should be trained with the various parts of this field including designing, pattern making, marking, manufacturing etc.
成衣制作是一个将面料转换成服装的过程。作为劳动密集型产业，它需要以理想的方式来体现创新性和独特性。服装专业的学生应该进行这一领域各个环节的培训，包括设计、制版、排料、制造等。
3. 成衣生产
New Words and Phrases
assemble [ sembl] v. 缝合，组装
assistant designer 助理设计师
basting [ be st ] n. 粗缝，疏缝针脚
belt [belt] n. 腰带
binding [ ba nd ] n. 包边，捆边
blindstitch hemmer 缲边机
buttonholer [ b tnh l ] n. 扣眼机
button-sew machine 缝扣机
contractor [k n tr kt (r)] n. 承包商
coverstitch machine 绷缝机
croquis [ kr k s] n. 速写，素描
cutting [ k t ] n. 裁剪
dart [dɑ t] 省道
epaulet [ ep let] n. 肩章
fabrication [ f br ke n] n. 面 料， 选 择 面 料
fastening [ fɑ sn ] n. 紧固件，扣合处
freelance designer 兼职设计师
fusing [ fju z ] n. 上粘合衬工艺
grade [ɡre d] v. 推版
grader [ ɡre d (r)] n. 推版师
high-end [ ha end] adj. 高档的，昂贵的
high-fashion [ha f n] n. 高级时装
knockoff [ n k f] n. 仿制品
lockstitch machine 平缝机
New Words and Phrases
marker [ mɑ k ] n. 排料图
muslin [ m zl n] n. 平纹细布
notch [n t ] n. 剪口 v. 打剪口
off-pressing [ f pres ] n. 成品熨烫，终烫
one-off [ w n f] n. 一次性产品
overedger [ v ed ] n. 包缝机，包边机
pattern [ p tn] n. 样版，纸样
patternmaker [p tn me k ] n. 打版师
patternmaking [p tn me k ] n. 打版，制版
piece goods 布匹，面料
piping [ pa p ] n. 镶条
production pattern 生产纸样
prototype [ pr t ta p] n. 样衣，原型
sample garment 样衣
seamstress [ si mstr s] n. 女裁缝，做针线活的妇女
sketch [sket ] n. 草图
sloper [ sl p ] n. 纸样，版
trend-setting [trend set ] n. 潮流的
underpressing [ nd pres ] n. 中烫，半成品熨烫
wholesaler [ h lse l (r)] n. 批发商
yoke [j k] n. 过肩，育克
zipper [ z p ] n. 拉链
New Words and Phrases
重点词汇讲解
basting : Basting is sewing long, easily removable stitches by machine or by hand. Basting stitches are intended to temporarily join fabric for several reasons.
粗缝是用机器或手工缝制的长且易于拆卸的针脚。粗缝是由于各种原因用来临时连接织物。
piping : a narrow strip of cloth used to decorate the edges of clothes .
用来装饰衣服边缘的窄条布。
Notes
[1] Product development, or the creation of new styles, involves a variety of specific operations: developing design ideas, selecting fabrics that are available and appropriately priced, making the fi rst pattern, making a sample garment or prototype, evaluating and refining the fit and design, computing the cost, making a production pattern, making duplicates, and grading the production pattern.
production pattern 指车间中用于生产的纸样，在样衣制作后不断修改的基础上确定的；“duplicates”原意是复制品，这里指在样衣开发成功后，生产少量样衣，用于试销或其他用途。
译文：产品开发，或称为新款式的开发，包含一系列具体步骤：开发设计理念，选择可用的、且价格合适的面料，制作最初纸样、制作样衣或服装雏形，评价、完善服装的合体性和款式，计算成本，制作生产纸样，样衣复制，生产纸样的推版。
[2] If the design is completely new, it is cut from muslin. If it is a new version of a previously successful style, the sample garment is often cut from a sample cut of a material being considered for production.
后半句中有两个 sample 和 cut，其词性和意义不同。第一个 cut 为动词，第二个 a sample cut of指面料的样品，即剪样。
译文：如果款式是全新的，样衣需要由平纹棉布来制作。如果款式是在过去成功样式的基础上进行的改造，样衣通常采用适合生产的面料剪样来裁剪制作。
Notes
Notes
[3] Because the sample will be used as a guide for making the production pattern, it must be as close to perfect as possible. To achieve this goal, the samplemaker frequently uses basting aids and more underpressing than would be cost-effective in fi nal production.
basting aids 指假缝、粗缝的手法；underpressing 指中烫，或半成品熨烫，过多使用会增加生产成本。
译文：样衣作为制作大货纸样的指导，它必须尽可能接近完美。为了达到这个目的，样衣师会频繁地采用粗缝手段，并且比起追求成本效益的成品生产会采用更多的中烫。
Notes
[4] Generally the difference between sizes smaller than a 10 is 1 inch; for sizes 10 to 16, it is 1 inches; and for sizes larger than 16, it is 2 inches, but this can vary with the manufacturer.
difference between sizes 是指某个部位的差值，决定推挡的尺寸。
译文：通常尺寸小于 10 档差为 1 英寸，尺寸 10-16 档差为 1 英寸 , 大于 16 档差为 2 英寸，这些推挡尺寸生产者均可以调整。
Notes
[5] In this system, each operation—such as pocket making, binding, sleeve closing and zipper setting—is completed by a different person on a number of identical pieces with the most appropriate machinery.
identical pieces 意为“完全相同的一组衣片”，这里指流水线上不同工人从事相同的服装部位缝合工作。
译文：在这种体系下，每个工序，例如口袋制作、包边、袖子缝合以及上拉链，是由不同的人将很多完全相同的衣片用最适合的设备来完成的。
Part II Marking, Spreading and Cutting
（排料、铺布和裁剪工序）
3. 成衣生产
New Words and Phrases
bolt [b lt] n. ( 布的 ) 一匹，一卷
die clicker 冲压裁剪机
kraft paper 牛皮纸
lay [le ] n. 面料层
marking [ mɑ k ] n. 排料
quilting [ kw lt ] n. 绗缝
spread [spred] n. 铺开的布料层
spreader [ spred (r)] n. 铺布工
spreading [ spred ] n. 铺布，铺料
selvage [ selv d ] n. 布边
thread tack 线钉
Notes
[6] Marking, or marker making, is the process of transferring the pattern to the fabric or paper. It should not be confused with the marking of cut parts.
Marking 在此处是指将所有衣片纸样放置在面料或纸上进行排料。英文中的 marking 原意为“标记、标识”，后文提到在裁剪结束后会对布片进行标识，为缝纫做准备。
译文：排版或排料，是指将纸样转移到面料或纸上，不要将排料和裁剪后面料做标记两个概念混淆。
Notes
[7] Whether done manually or with a spreader, it is a slow, time-consuming process because it must be done precisely to avoid fabric waste and to ensure that the plies are aligned so the parts can be cut accurately. The plies can be spread face up, face down, or face to face.
face up，face down 和 face to face 是排料时布层放置的几种方式。
译文：无论是人工或是铺布机完成，这都是个缓慢费时间的过程，因为这个过程需要做得非常精确以避免面料的浪费，并确保堆叠的布层对齐使裁剪的部位非常准确。布层可以是正面向上、正面向下或正反交替铺开。
Exercises
I. Match the words in Column A with the proper descriptions in Column B.
Column A
（ ）1. piping
（ ）2. binding
（ ）3. seam
（ ）4. prototype
（ ）5. spread
Column B
A. The first garment made from the design sketch.
B. A stack of fabric plies superimposed one on top of another.
C. A narrow strip of material or trim that finishes the edge by enclosing the raw edges.
D. A decorative strip sewn into a seamline.
E. A line, generally sewn, that joins two or more fabric layers
Exercises
lining basting zipper grading pattern notch assemble fabrication
1. Many breakthroughs in techniques and new materials must be developed.
2. After cutting process, the pieces are separated and bundled appropriately for the individual operators who will them.
3. As one of the least expensive fasteners, allow a closely fitted garment to be opened easily for dressing.
4. Marking the edges with , the pattern pieces can be joined accurately.
5. is a method for increasing and decreasing the sizes of the individual pattern pieces.
6. If the pieces cannot be sewn together properly, the samplemaker will advise the design team.
7. Unless designed, otherwise, does not show at edges of a garment.
8. is a temporary stitch used to hold plies together before permanently stitching.
II. Fill in the blanks with correct words in the following box．
Exercises
（ ）1. When a designer is making the fi rst pattern with a patternmaker closely, the croquis may be .
A. very clear B. simple C. very accurate D. precise
（ ）2. The basic block is a set of pattern which usually has .
A. construction methods B. design features C. design details D. no design features
（ ）3. If a design is completely new, the sample garment will be made by at first.
A. muslin B. sample fabric C. cotton D. appropriate fabric
（ ）4. Compared with factory operators who perform only one or two operations, the samplemaker has .
A. more profi cient skills B. faster operating speed C. more extensive skills D. more professional skills
（ ）5. Duplicates can be used as .
A. a guide for advertising the product in print
B. a standard for production by the contractor or factory supervisors
C. a sample to show the fi rm’s new line to the retail buyers D. all of the above
III. Choose the best answer according to the text.
Exercises
（ ）6. can be done by CMT contractors.
A. Cutting and sewing B. All production processes C. Pressing and packaging D. Sewing and pressing
（ ）7. The whole-garment process is costly for .
A. using highly skilled workers B. using special equipment
C. the slow production process D. using less-skilled workers
（ ）8. The fi nishing process includes a variety of operations except .
A. pressing B. closing buttons C. sewing buttons D. inspecting for flaws
（ ）9. Cutting operations greatly infl uence the total cost of the garment because .
A. it cuts the fabric into individual components B. it cuts the plies accurately
C. it determines the amount of fabric D. it marks component parts for sewing
（ ）10. As the most widely used work indicators, notches are placed .
A. on the body of the components B. at the center of cloth
C. on the edges of the components D. at the end of the seamline to mark the seam allowance width
Expanding video — Apparel Production
1. 重点句翻译；
2. 整理本章相关专业词汇。
3. 完成教材练习IV；
4. 课下自学补充阅读Sewing Machines，完成课后习题。
5. 预习第4章热身练习，并熟悉阅读部分的词汇。
课下作业
THE END
Kindness is a universal language in the world which can be felt by the blind and the deaf . 善良是一种世界通用的语言，它可以被盲人感知到，聋子闻到——马克吐温

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